Toast of Athens: JD Wagoner

If you’re like me, whenever you’re introduced to someone with an abbreviated name, you assign your own meaning to the abbreviation regardless of what the letters likely represent.  P.J.’s become Potato Jugglers; J.C.’s become Jam Canners, and J.T.’s will of course always be Johnathan Taylors.  So naturally when I met J.D. for the first time, I was later saddened to find out that his name isn’t actually John Dillinger.  As it turns out, his dad wanted to name him Johnny and his mom wanted him to be a Daniel.  However, they both hoped that he wouldn’t grow to abbreviate it, but hey you can’t always get what you want.  That is unless you’re you’re downing one of J.D.’s Margaritas, more on that later.  Speaking of that, I feel like I should take this opportunity to issue a disclaimer.  I may or may not have sold away my journalistic integrity for one of those lovely things, in exchange for not making J.D. out to look like a fool.  To be honest though, it’s hardly necessary.

I don’t know if it’s something in the water or what, but most everyone I’ve met in Athens thus far just has this ease about them.  J.D. is no exception, and today his dress matches his demeanor; it’s brunch day so his appearance is naturally a little more relaxed.  I’m talking a Creature Comforts Tropicali Tee and backwards flat bill relaxed.

I’ll be honest, when I first set up this meet I thought J.D. was responsible for the design of Highwire’s submission for Toast of Athens, the Apple Bottom Burro.  As it turns out, his bar manager at Highwire, Oliver Gawlik, is actually the one to talk to about that.  “You mean I’ll have to come back out to Athens again to get that interview?”  That’s terrible.  {Heaping amounts of sarcasm here}.  Yet this was hardly a waste of time, as I came to learn that J.D. is behind the spirits, wine, and beer of not just Highwire, but also Trappeze and S.Kitchen.  Additionally, he’s responsible for designing the cocktail menu at S.Kitchen.  Ah yes, someone who enjoys being as overloaded as I do.  If I knew nothing else about him, this info alone could get me interested in his origin story, which is kind of like the Wolverine origin story except ya know without poor acting and much less special effects.

Ryan: “So, Mr. Dillinger how did you find yourself in this position?”

J.D.: “My name isn’t John Dillinger.”

Ryan: “I’m going to choose to ignore that.”

J.D.: “Uhm ok.  Well I went into medical sales straight out of school.  I soon found I absolutely hated it.  I made the transition into distributing sales, hoping that if I found a product I really liked, that I wouldn’t hate my life so much.  I ended up working at Three Blind Mice, a large alcohol distributor, for a while and Trappeze was our best customer.  One day I received a call from Rick Goddard, the owner of both Trappeze and Highwire, asking me to come work for him.”

{I don’t have a fancy abbreviated name, so I’m just going to use my first and middle.  Which I’ll leave open for yall to assign meaning to.  Is my name Ryan Eskimo?  It can be.  If you dream big enough.}

R.E.: “That’s radical man.”

J.D.: “Yeah.  His only stipulations were that I’m not allowed to 1. Ever play rap music at his establishments.  2. Buy Patron products ever. and 3. No Fireball.”

R.E.: “No rap?  But 90’s rap is everything.  Speaking of, where do your loyalties lie?”

J.D.: “On what?  Rap?”

R.E.: “Biggie or Tupac bro.”

J.D.: “Biggie all day.”

R.E.: “That is correct.  So when it comes to spirits, beer, and wine; which is your favorite?”

J.D.: “I started out being really into food and cooking first.  Then I got into beer and now it’s wine.  I’m actually a Level 1 Sommelier and I’m studying for my Level 2.”

R.E.:  “So, kind of a natural progression.  Speaking of what are your go-to spring wine selections?”

J.D.: “Since I’m training for my Level 2, they’re mostly those indicative to their original region like Chablis and White Rioja.  To be honest, I’m on a White Rioja kick, because I missed one on my blinds at my Somm 1.”

{That statement was followed by an intense look of focus and determination.}

R.E.: “It’s getting to be about time for you to jump behind the bar brotha.  When ya get back there, I want you to make your Margarita.  I’m not going to give you any specifics.  You make it how you like it.”

{It’s nearly 12:30 and we live in the south, so it’s just about that time where our genteel moral code will legally allow us to raise a glass.}

J.D.: “Word.”

Alright, so I have this theory on bartenders.  Of course it’s great to be able to do all these interesting flourishes like crafting your own syrups and bitters, infusing your own spirits, and creating grandiose experimental cocktails.  I frequently do this behind my bar.  Yet, when you really get down to it, real skill is shown by how well you do the basics and the frequency with which you can repeat that process efficiently as well as accurately.  Plus, basics are really open ended.  You can make it true to the original, or make it your own.  That being said, when meeting a bartender in their element for the first time I always have them make me a basic.  Since it’s Sunday and I’m slightly hungover, it’s time for a Margarita.

J.D.’s Resposado Margarita
“I usually shoot Resposado and use Añejo for margs, but I don’t have any Añejo in house.  And you are definitely not a Silver Tequila kind of guy.”

2oz Milagro Resposado
1oz Lime Juice {fresh}
.75oz Grand Marnier
.25oz Dark Agave Syrup

~ Combine all ingredients in a shaking tin

~ Shake shake shake Señora

~ Strain into rocks glass, half salt rim

“I went with a half salt, because I like some but I’m not sure about your preference.”

It was absolutely delicious. The inherent spiciness of the Reposado compliments the near molasses sweetness of the dark agave.  The Grand Marnier is the Mercedes of the Orange Liquer family; I’m always glad to see that going in.  The half salt rim was interesting. Nice to have the option, plus it just goes to show how accommodating my host is.  J.D. has his preferences, but he still leaves room for you, the guest.  You can’t ask for much more.

If you want to check out J.D.’s handiwork for yourself head over to Trappeze Pub, Highwire Lounge, or South Kitchen and Bar.

Yours Truly,

Ryan Smith