Mama’s Kitchen: Big BBQ Flavor in a Small Town

Well worth the 45 minute drive to the outskirts of Barnesville, on a small hill next to a Flash Foods and a run-down strip mall, is an unassuming trailer that disguises the magic happening inside. Mama’s Kitchen, owned by Thomas and Angie Wellbrook, is everything you want in a local barbeque joint and more. Drawn by the siren song of something called the “Big Bill,” my partner-in- crime and I hustled up the road toward Lamar County.

After a slight mishap involving a lack of cash (Mama’s Kitchen is currently unable to accept credit cards because, as the owner kindly explained, the cable company has been unsuccessfully trying to run an internet line to them for the past few months. #countryproblems), we made our choices. First, we ordered what we came for: Big Bill’s Brisket Burger – a thin patty with white American cheese, barbeque sauce, mayo, onion, bacon, and pickled jalapenos topped with a juicy slice of brisket. Next was the Ole Henry; like Big Bill’s Brisket, it  comes with white American cheese, barbeque sauce, and mayo, but is topped with two onion rings and their house-made BRISKET BACON. OMG.

We were content with these two behemoths, but someone decided that he wanted to contribute a quarter to a local charitable organization in the old standard “drop your change into the tiny bowl in the bucket of water” game of chance set up at the order counter. Two seconds after a rousing proclamation of, “I never win these things!!” the first quarter hit its mark and we enjoyed our free juicy pulled pork sandwich as a glorious appetizer. Some guys have all the luck…

While we were waiting for our burgers, the owner half-jokingly explained that he started the business as a way to get his wife and mother-in-law out of his hair by setting up a place for them to serve a quick breakfast and lunch. Once the economy started to flat-line, Thomas, who had been in the construction business, decided to make the place a full-time business and began smoking meat for the lucky residents of Barnesville. The steady stream of regulars have their favorite sandwiches named after them: a local hairdresser has his special grilled chicken sandwich up on the board, and a custom Philly sandwich was christened the Brad White, after the current Lamar County sheriff. What looks like a random path leading up between the kitchen and the smoker is actually designed as a makeshift drive-thru for the many truckers who pass by on Highway 341 who are free to call ahead and have their order brought out to the cab. Thomas uses his special blend of seasonings on everything from the pork to the ribs to the brisket, and it is glorious.

Suffice it to say, the burgers were excellent. I mean truly excellent. The flavor balance was perfect, the brisket tender, the house sauce sweet but with a delightful peppery kick. Almost all of the sides are made fresh right there in that little kitchen. We regretted not sampling the potato salad, but with two burgers and a free sammich to plough through, I think we had more than enough for one afternoon’s indulgence. Go. Take cash and go. Immediately. They’re open until 6:30 p.m. so you can even call ahead and grab an early dinner if you can’t make the trip for lunch. We plan on going often enough to someday convince him to name an epic burger after us as well.